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Barcelona – supermarkets and paella – discuss
We arrived and for once did not go to the main area of Las Ramblas and the Gothic District. I’ve been to Barcelona a few times before so it was time to go off piste and see what the city had to offer. We air b n b’d a great apartment in the area of Rambla del Poblenou and it was less than £100 a night for a two bedroom. I took a photo of the street name on my iphone as it was particularly difficult to pronounce. This proved a life saver when getting home in a cab.
We searched for a supermarket because everyone knows that European Supermarkets are ridiculously good and should be high on your list of important points of interest to see as soon as you land. Never has fruit tasted so good. It puts England and the States to shame when it comes to tasty fresh produce.
Things that you immediately need to buy to keep for a weekend away in spain. Chorizo, nectarines, tomatoes, tortilla, bread, emergency drunken pizza, sweet peppers in a jar, fresh anchovies, Strawberry twizzlers, milk, condensed milk to make iced coffee, coffee. Rose wine, red wine, beer. Water, fresh limes and lemons.
This photo does not do the Paella justice in Vell.
We went on the hunt for Paella and Sangria. Which isn’t hard being in Barcelona, but it had to be right. We had a gourmet Paella from what was like a local cafe looking restaurant in a place called Vell. Not the real yellow type this was a treat gently simmered in stock and tasted like it had been cooked in a top restaurant even though we were in what felt like a cafe. We had a great paella the day after which was the dirty saffron kind but once I’d had the gourmet one it was like comparing steak to a greasy kebab . Both have their own merits but are right for different times in life.
Need Meat and Malbec in Barcelona? Go Patagonia
I was too greedy to stop and take a picture of my steak so took this pointless picture of the wine instead. But it was a good wine.
We had had enough of the tapas and we needed steak. And not small bits of steak but lump sums. We saw the ribeye. It was for two, but we wanted it split in half and cooked two different ways. This was no pizza hut. Could they do it? Would they do it? It was tense for about two minutes. But the answer was positive and service swift and friendly. There was a plethora of Malbec to choose from too. We were too drunk to eat dessert. Was it the best steak I’ve ever had? No, but it was very good. And local peoples were eating in there, which is always a good sign.
How to make the ultimate melanzane alla Parmigiana
I made this and it was the ultimate in YUM. All the comments beforehand are really helpful as well.
Spaniards Inn – Hampstead, London.
Sometimes this pub can get a bit too busy for it’s own good, but that’s because it’s a great pub and everyone knows, find a great pub and find the worst kept secret. So if you want it when it’s buzzy then go in the summer and crash someones gigantic table outside in the huge garden, and join everyone else who is getting sloshed. If you want it a bit quieter than do what I just did and get there at midday on a Sunday and grab the last unreserved table. I was having a Roast Dinner in the Evening and did entertain the idea of ordering one from lunch and doing the double, but I didn’t I went for Gnocchi, and I’m so glad I did. I mean look at it. One of the best gnocchi’s I have ever had. Hand made, truffle cream with pea shoots and chestnut mushrooms. This deserves the biggest picture ever. 
Andina – Peruvian Food in East London
Picture taken from Opentable, where you can book a table should you want to. Or you can call the restaurant, they have a phone.
I don’t like raw fish. Andina is a Ceviche Bar. Just so you know what that is as I didn’t, it’s raw fish. My heart sank. It hadn’t been my choice to go for Peruvian, because frankly who would? Menu Menu Menu, my eyes then scanned to quinoa burger. Sad, so sad. But wait then Pig Butty – oh lunch only and I was there for dinner. I was glad their food was for suitable for coeliacs and locally sourced but how about some food that I could have? You can get a whole suckling pig, – if you order it five days before…
But wait there’s a pot at the end of the rainbow, because being on my best behaviour and also being hungry I just decided to go for it. Grilled steak skewers and chicken casseroles, all with weird, but cooked ingredients not previously mentioned and you know what? It was good. It was really good. The doughnuts for dessert made the meal just wish that there had been more choices.
The place has a good vibe. It’s busy, small seating, not posh nosh but street food. The service is really good and friendly but it’s not somewhere you would go and sit for a long time enjoying your food. I liked it, but if you like sushi you will probably like it more.
Miami
After Vegas I headed to Miami to visit my friend. We headed out looking for a strong coffee called Cortadito, which I would say is like an espresso but called something else. We found a great little place in the middle of pretty much nowhere and got our fix. This is of course after having to order in Spanish something that should be so simple and yet both of us floundered with our arms helplessly flapping as we tried to ask for coffee.
I learnt Spanish for a year when I was sixteen, mainly because my boyfriend at the time was Spanish and I wanted to know what his mum was saying about me. All these years later and the simple task of ordering a coffee and all I could think of was how to order a beer and say where is the station? Useless. But they smiled politely and got us what we wanted after what seemed an eternity of lost in translation. I had let myself down, my family down and anyone else I could think of down.
We decided not to do South Beach but drive around looking for Street Art and we found plenty. I have nothing sarcastic to say about any of it. It just reminded me of how I got a B- for effort in art but D for the actual execution. I never quite worked out how to get what was inside my head into art but these people certainly had. I wonder if they draw it first as a sketch or can just do?
We had an amazing lunch at a place called Michael’s Food and Drink; it’s worth mentioning because apart from the tables being too close together, so much so we actually joined in the conversation with the people next to us, I think I had the best Chilli I had ever had. It was a food haven.
Miami behind me I flew for a rest to my family in Florida, on a jet plane. The propeller kind where there is only 20 seats. Now I know why it only cost sixty bucks. How the pilot and attendants do it constantly I don’t know. I felt like I was in the movie Knight and Day when Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz are the only people on the plane bar the bad guys. If only Tom Cruise had made an appearance perhaps all would have been well, but he wasn’t so I shit myself for the hour.
Day 40 -41 – Charleston, Myrtle Beach and Home
Best ribs in town.
Leaving Savannah was a sad moment. I had been caught up in the magic of it all. But road trip means just that, and we all have to make our way back to somewhere of significance at some point. As we checked out the hotel my roadster friend asked the lady at reception with the grey hair and glasses who looked like the grandma out of the Tom and Jerry cartoon.
‘I want ribs. I want a shack. I don’t want tourist. You know what I’m saying?’
‘Mmmmm Hmmm?’ Was her Southern accented answer. ‘You sure?’
‘Sure.’
And so we were given directions to Randy’s Bar B que. I had no idea what to expect even though he did and was even more surprised when we pulled up at a shack on the road that had two choices. Ribs or Chicken.
‘What’s good?’
‘Well we outta the chicken so it will have to be the ribs. And we outta the sides too.’ Said the screech behind the window.
So we went for medium ribs; medium for a giant maybe. And as we put them on the bonnet of the car in 90 degree heat and feasted, I thought – my lord these are the best ribs I have ever had in my life. Completely worth any food poisoning that may happen.
We drove on to Charlston, but I’ve got to admit the town did not raise my pulse. It looks beautiful but it feels soulless. We wondered around for a couple of hours and felt like we had been there for days. We trundled through a big market selling the usual crafts as over the top prices. I can’t stand markets. Seen a few, seen them all. We had a drink and walked back to the car. On the way, we came across a fountain with some children playing and stopped to read the rules. I’ve posted them below. I think it’s a sign of litigation going a bit too far in the States. It’s not like it was a deep swimming pool. But it pretty much summed up the town of beige cargo pant wearing men.
And so on to Myrtle beach to the Sheraton. I looked on Orbitz and got a price of 70 bucks. I rung the Sheraton and they wanted 140. Make sense of that if you can? I’m glad we only paid the seventy as when we turned up, not only did they charge extra for us to park the car in their car park but the place looked like it hadn’t been touched in a long time. I actually said as I went in, ‘ Hello 1982’ Talk about a plaster over things to cover up the falling apart. The staff smiled thinly but each looked like they had lost the will to live.
But we were tired and had a twelve hour journey back the next day. So went to the beach to play with the night sky app on the iphone. It tells you what the stars are in the sky. Well it could be making it up but it seems impressive. The beach is nice but it looks like a beach that could be anywhere in the world with rows of condominiums. The time was cut short by some morons with a laser light in one of the condos thinking it was hilarious to point it at us on the beach for at least half hour. And from the laughter I don’t think they were younger than eighteen, which I think we can all agree is a shame for them.
The drive back the next day was brutal but broken up with the delight of an $8 all you can eat buffet which did not suck in the slightest. It had fresh catfish any way you wanted it. I completely pigged out and on we drove back to New York, making it past the delirium and home safe. I salute my partner for doing the entire drive and not moaning once, probably more likely because he didn’t trust my driving. It was a journey where we really wanted to keep on driving but work called and so the chapter closed but it will stay dear in my heart as first and best proper road trip ever.
Washington D.C – Day 36
On our way to Washington D.C
Day 36 of the trip but Day 1 of road trip. My trusty friend and I went away for a five day extravaganza on the road with the ultimate goal being to reach Savannah, Gerogia; a place I had become obsessed about since reading Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. It was Memorial Day weekend and getting out of New York past New Jersey took about three hours. It wasn’t the best start but luckily we were very excited and hadn’t annoyed the hell out of each other at that point. First point of call was Dunkin Donuts for coffee, where I learnt this was the best place to get your fast fix. Luckily for me I was with an experienced American road tripper.
By the time we reached the first point of call which was Washington D.C it was night. We were starving so we drove past the White House and all the buildings, said – yeah that’s cool and went to eat some Ethiopian food which I found much more interesting. I’m not one for staring at buildings even if they are important.
After dinner we checked into a local hotel in Arlington which was nice enough but my memory of it is already faint and went to the local dive sports bar. Which isn’t somewhere I would have chosen, but it was the only bar and I like drinking. What I did fail to notice was that my vodka and cranberry’s were being served in pint glasses. So the latter memory of this night is sketchy. I do know I cried for no reason and then wanted to be sick in the night; Classy. At least I didn’t fall off my stool which I have been known to do.
New York – Days 24 to 35
I had a good friend in Town so we decided to do what I should do and don’t and that was go to the Museums. So we made arrangements and toddled over to the to Met Museum to find it closed. The Met is closed on a Monday to the Public should you need this info. So we went to the Natural History Museum to see the Whale Exhibition which was actually pretty good.
We had to go through the dinosaur exhibition to get anywhere and being a City girl I was immediately annoyed that I couldn’t just get direct to where I was going. Past childhood why on earth would you want to see a bunch of dinosaurs? But no I take it back. It’s pretty amazing and worth the walk. The only thing the museum could have done with is a good dusting. Some of the exhibits are behind glass and look like no one has cleaned the filth accumulating inside for as long as the items have existed. Get a duster Natural History.
We made it to the Met a few days later to the see the Punk Couture exhibition which would be great if you didn’t know anything about punk but I thought it was pretty lame in general. It’s a lot of clothes in rows and quite dull. But I’m from London and a musician so I know all about punk so I’m probably just being over picky. It didn’t stop me buying a CBGB t shirt at the end though. I once played there so I figured I had the right.
And in this amount of time there had been a ridiculous amount of food in amazing places. I do like a munch on the crumbs of life. Stanton Social on the Lower East Side, The Tangled Vine wine bar on the Upper West, Del Frisco’s amazing steak house in the Mid West, The Magnolia Bakery and their ridiculous Banana Pudding. And the cocktail bar of the hotel which killed it with their amazing mixology at The Crosby Hotel. I will name and shame the waiter in Sara Beth’s on the upper West Side for purposefully not trying to bring back change for a bill which meant he would have taken a 40% tip. And he was not making an error. When I complained he couldn’t even look me in the eye as he brought the change back. I am no tourist here now sir, so take the shame.
I also got stuck in a rainstorm. As it was warm and rainy I waited inside a toy store not looking suspicious in the slightest as I played on my phone. In the end my time of dawdling had run out and I decided to make a dash. Sure I might get a little wet but how much worse could it get? Well it gets much worse in New York as the sheets of rain hit. This is rain unlike any other I have experienced . I felt like I had been caught in a monsoon yet I was in the centre of New York. So if in doubt in the rain over here, just don’t.
And to top it off I l have been learning that the measurements of alcohol in drinks here is nothing like the paltry measures back home. I’m a practicing lush and I’m having to learn to take it slow on the consumption. Well I’m trying. After on a Monday night downing a few Espresso Martinis at the Crosby Hotel I went onto a friends bar where I ended up being the only proprietor. This ended with me getting over excited by the DJ playing a random selection of 80’s and running up to the booth like a fan and making him put on Don’t you Want me Baby by the Human League at full volume and making him sing it with me. Alone in the bar with my friend and two other co workers watching. The dangers of mixing the drinks is a lesson learned here. Maybe not adhered to but learned all the same. I felt very quiet the next day. Never have I willed a natural fruit juice to heal me more; It didn’t.
New York Days 11 to 15
So I moved into my gaff in the week. Advertised as a B and B but really like having a small studio apartment on the Upper West Side. I love having the space to myself even though I’m not used to a one room space. I’m obsessed with watching rubbish TV on Netflix as I haven’t watched TV in ages. The main thing that I worked out very quickly is that they deliver anything. And we’re not just talking food. They deliver – Wait for it – Wine, well alcohol in general. It’s already on speed dial and I was a regular within minutes. This is surely worthy of a blog on its own? I’ve also discovered a deli called Citarella that makes Marks and Spencers in the UK look like a corner store. Anything you want it’s there. Like restaurant food without having to sit down. I’ve been twice but I’ve managed to hold back a bit. It’s not been easy.
I got to have my first problem encounter with a neighbour upstairs who sounded like she was dragging furniture around at one in the morning Turns out she was. Being too polite to confront her myself I left a note grassing her up for the housekeeper. I don’t know what I expected to happen but he went straight to her and grassed me back up. On my return home I had a pack of earplugs and an apology note and then the worst case scenario, a knock on the door. I dealt with it by blaming the house for being so creaky not her neurotic behaviour and rather than ending it with a bye then said,
‘You really must come down before you leave and have a glass of wine.’
Why Why Why? So far no knock. I’d only turn the lights out and stand still for an hour if she did.
Manhattan is such a great place to wander around but I’m struggling with the fashion. There doesn’t seem to be any on the streets like London. Pretty generic and sporty. In London more than most have a particular sense of style. Most people I’ve noticed on the street or subway look like they picked up their partners clothes and threw them on, backwards. So much for Sex and the City. I can’t say I’m a sporty dresser so that’s a no. But then the designer discount stores are always worth a visit. Century 21 and Loehmans. Hold me back, I’m about to get into debt.
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